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What is Engine Tuning? Part 2

We have gone over the basic function of an engine, timing, fuel and knocking. Now we’ll start getting deeper into MAF sensors and modifying their signal.

Sensors

The ECU knows the position of the crank by the crank sensor. It knows the amount of air coming in by the MAF(mass airflow) sensor which measures air density. The MAP(manifold absolute pressure) sensor measures the air pressure. These sensors combined help the ECU determine what changes in timing and fuel to make.

Knock Sensor

Like most engine sensors, the knock sensor is very important. This sensor is responsible for detecting knock or random combustion events which generate a pinging/knocking sound like I mentioned before; marbles hitting. You can mimic this sound by tapping the engine block with a screw driver lightly, the knock sensor would pick it up.

When you have a condition that is too lean and or there is too much timing you will tend to experience knock and that is when the sensor sends a signal to the ECU. The ECU then makes timing adjustments such as retarding the timing in order to not repeat the knock it just picked up. On a Maxima, the ECU does not do a good enough job at reducing timing when knock is present, this is why it is important to do something about timing once you start to modify your Maxima for more power. Side note, when you hear a near stock VQ35 knocking, it is likely that there is oil present in the intake manifold and in the combustion due to poor PCV valve design(a catch can is needed).

There are devices that can be programmed to make adjustments to the timing once knock is detected. One system is the J&S Safeguard which is an old school device yet extremely important in the my turbo 97. Once any sign of knock is detected you can choose to reduce certain amount of timing degree’s depending on the strength of the knock. Devices like these do a much better job than the factory ECU which only reduces a small amount of timing when knock is detected. Nowadays standalone ECU’s handle this much better as well as newer factory ECU’s.

MAF

The common MAF has a hot wire suspended in the air inside the intake airflow path. The temperature of the wire affects how much current flows through it. When the wire is hot there is more resistance and therefore less current flows (electrical current moves easier in the cold). The wire is cooled down as air flows through it, reducing resistance and increasing how much current flows through. The resistance measured is converted to a voltage value between 0 and 5.0 which is then sent to the ECU.

You may have heard of the MAF size being increased or swapping to a different one. This is because the MAF is calibrated for a specific air flow and once you start to exceed that the MAF will no longer read additional air.

There are ways to solve this for example once the MAF has maxed out and its sending the ECU 5v, you can then use the MAP sensor to adjust your fuel and timing. Another way could be to increase the size of the housing where the sensors wire is. You can also put a MAF that is designed to read higher amount of air. For my 1997 I use a Nissan Z32 MAF because it is designed to read more air than the factory 4th generation Maxima. The Z32 MAF will read roughly 550WHP worth of air. At about 18psi with a 66mm turbo I see the MAF reading 5v.

Tuning Devices

Engine tuning is controlling the output of the engine by adjusting air, fuel and timing.

Air Fuel Controllers (AFC)

The most common method of making adjustments to the fuel is by using an air fuel controller (AFC). You may have heard of piggyback. This is referring to a device that is connected between the cars ECU and the engine. The piggyback device can be programmed to adjust the signals going to and from the factory ECU. For example if the ECU is sending 50% duty cycle to the injectors, the device could modify that and add or subtract duty cycle. This method of tuning allows you to keep the factory ECU while still being able to tune.

With the common AFC you are limited to being able to control only the MAF signal. By modifying the MAF signal the ECU is receiving, you are able to control the amount of fuel being delivered. This is a great way to make small adjustments to a lightly modified Maxima. One side effect of controlling fuel this way is that when you remove fuel you are increasing timing and when you add fuel you are retarding timing (less timing advance). Technically you can advance timing this way on an all motor Maxima and gain a few HP, as long as the higher timing is not causing knocking; for example ~200WHP/WTQ on an all motor automatic 97.

Advanced Air Fuel Controllers

More advanced air fuel controllers are those that not only can modify the MAF signal but they can modify nearly all engine related signals. For example an Emanage Ultimate can modify fuel injector duty cycle and duration, ignition timing, throttle position, and can read and monitor many inputs. The next level after this would be using a standalone ECU.

Standalone ECU

Standalone ECU’s are computers that replace the car’s factory ECU. This is generally the ideal method of tuning as it gives you total control while the air fuel controllers only modify the factory ECU’s input and output. Standalone’s tend to be far more expensive than air fuel control so generally you see more air fuel controllers used on home built cars.

In the next article I will go over logging and examples.

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Mr Greenmax Turbo VQ30 550WHP+

Now this is what I am talking about folks. Today we feature this 1999 Nissan Maxima that is making over 500WHP on the VQ30. Nowadays most maxima enthusiasts want to swap a 3.5 (VQ35) in their 4th Gen (95-99) Maxima’s and forget to realize that the VQ30 is well equipped to handle great power in factory and in built form.

An interesting aspect of this build is that despite making such great power it still has the factory 4th Gen intake manifold which is proven to be the most inefficient. This build has a lot more potential and I am looking forward to seeing more.

Overall Details

The turbo is a Precision 62/62 with 3″ piping from the turbo to the throttle body and a 3″ exhaust from the turbo to the back along with a cutout that exists out of the passenger side door.

The fuel system consists of a 6an return line and a 8an feed. Feeding the fuel are 960cc Injectors and a 450 Walbro with a Aeromotive fuel filter.
It also has nitrous using a ZEX Nitrous Wet System, jetted for 65HP.  

The computer handling this monster is a Haltech Platinum Sport 2000. To get the Haltech to work at the time a Ford Mustang trigger wheel needed to be used. The boost is controlled by gear via the Haltech, 1st gear has no boost, 2nd gear gets 15psi, and there after 21psi. 570WHP.

Engine Details:

JWT Cams
VQ30 Built Block with Wiseco pistons 9.1 compression
K1 Rods
ACL bearing
Block Guard

Transmission

05 Maxima 6 speed with SER Spec V gears and limited slip; using Redline Fluid to help with shock.
Holding it the torque is a ClutchMaster twin disk clutch

Worked performed by MPHFabrication and tuned by Autoauthorityct.

I hope you enjoyed this post as much as I did and I will be sure to continue sharing updates of this sweet ride.

Follow Mr.Greenmax on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/mr.greenmax

Thank You

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Streetzlegend Front Mount Turbo Build Part 3

In this part three of the front mount turbo setup I go over the exhaust options. Exhaust exit to the floor, exit out of the hood and cat back exhaust.

Some information about the car:
1997 Maxima
VQ35DE
Automatic
Turbo (initially rear mount turbo)

Floor Exit

To get the car on the street quickly I made the turbo exit aiming down to the floor. This was not fun like when you drive around the block with no cat back installed and you cant feel your own body due to the noise and drone. The pipe used was 3.5inch and the bend was made with pie cuts for a sharper turn to stay away from the radiator.

Driving required some getting used too. As you drive a car for a long time you start to become aware of the sounds it makes. You can hear when its lean, rich, knocking, or piston slapping. When those sounds are overpowered by the exhaust, you are left with no feedback; you feel disconnected. Apart from that the car was now alive. Here are videos with the exhaust to the floor.

Front mount turbo idling with down pipe aiming to the floor.
Front mount turbo untuned test drive with down pipe to the floor.

Cat Back

I started working on a cat back solution. There was enough space between the cross member and the turbo feed pipe. I had to make a reducer from the turbo to a 3 inch 90 degree pipe. To accomplish this I got the flange for the turbo and made v cuts all around the end that welds to the exhaust. I then bent the fins(created with the V cuts) inward and welded them all; this gave me a smooth reducer. I welded the 90 degree pipe to the flange, welded the other end to a new 90 degree pipe that turns under the engine and between the cross member and turbo feed pipe.

Catback exhaust sound clip.
Testing the cat back exhaust at 16psi of boost.

Hood Exit

The hood exist was not my first option, it was not even a thought. With the car not being daily driven I figured I would try something new. I made a 3.5 inch pipe with pie cuts to achieve 90 degrees and pointed it up to the hood. To find where I needed to cut I put grease on the pipe and closed the hood to see where it would mark. After hacking away this is the result.

The hood exit was more quiet than when pointing to the floor. It is still loud but it does not feel like an earthquake anymore.

In Part 4 of this article I will go over the finishing touches, and that is the side exhaust that sounds great.

To be continued…

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Streetzlegend Front Mount Turbo Build Part 2

In this part two of the front mount turbo build I will go over making the radiator efficient enough to cool the engine in all conditions.

Some information about the car:
1997 Maxima
VQ35DE
Automatic
Turbo (initially rear mount turbo)

DIY Fan Shroud

I used a generic brand radiator from eBay. It is a two core aluminum radiator for a Honda del Sol. The fan used is a Spal 12″ Curved Blade Puller Fan. With a pullIng fan it is important to use a shroud so that the air is pulled from all sections of the radiator. Having no shroud the fan will only pull air through the area where the fan is mounted too; limiting the cooling area to that diameter.

I created the Shroud using two cookie baking trays. I cut both of them in half then I overlaid the ends together so that I can have a specific width to cover the whole area needed. The tray is about a quarter inch to half an inch deep which means this is how far the trays floor will be away from the radiator; you want this distance or greater to help pull air from the corners of the radiator.

I then riveted the trays together to make a sturdy. I cut a hexagonal shape in the center with the same diameter as the fan (12″). To support it all, I used the brackets that came with the fan and bolted them to the radiator; I fastened the shroud to the radiator with through bolts.

Dealing with exhaust Heat

For the radiator hoses I visited a local parts store and asked to get access to all the hoses. The tricky part was the bottom hose, so I found several bends that worked out great. I used a connector to merge the hoses together to make one final piece that would go across the radiator support, to the passenger side, and up like the usual stock hose path. This bottom hose passes directly in front of the feed and down pipes so wrapping them in header wrap was necessary in my opinion to protect the rubber from direct heat.

After driving around it was clear that I needed to wrap the down pipe and feed pipe to keep it from starting to over heat; this is when I thought I should have purchased a three core radiator. With a few modifications I have had success with the two core. I created a shield to block the down pipe from radiating heat directly onto the radiators side which helped a lot.

This video shows the heat shield made to block heat from the downpipe.

As you can see in the video, I had the transmission cooler mounted on the grill in front of the turbo. This was an issue because the heat coming off the turbo and exhaust piping would warm up the cooler in traffic. I had to relocate the cooler and at the same time upgraded to a larger unit; more on this in its own blog post.

The next test was sitting in traffic or in a staging line. The engine would start to warm up after a long while. I realized that the reason for this was because the passenger side of the grill area was opened exposing the turbo and exhaust piping. This means that when the car is at a stop, heat comes out of the front of the grill area then gets pulled back in through the radiator; basically the radiator was pulling air that was already hot. The solution was to make a plate from thin aluminum which blocked the left side of the grill completely. I then cut a triangle on the hood above the turbo so that it could be an escape for the heat. The end result gave me a reliable setup for cooling.

Finally, since the car is now more focused for racing, I created a short exhaust pipe that exits out of the hood. This is used for the track or weekends. Alternately I can attach the catback to the original turbo outlet I created when I want a quiet ride. will go into details in the next post.

In the next post I will go over how I created the rear side exhaust while still keeping a muffler.