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Crank Pressure

From my experience VQ35’s tend to have excess crank pressure. Think about it, how many 3.5’s do you hear about that are constantly knocking even with 93 octane fuel and nearly stock with little to no modifications. Part reason is because the inside of intake manifold is coated with oil that comes from the valve cover. Oil in the combustion reduces octane and causes buildup. Why are there so many 3.5’s that leak oil; there are even jokes and meme’s about it. Well, to understand let me take the opportunity and go over the PCV system and solutions.

PCV System

The PCV system is a closed system which circulates the crank case pressure into the intake manifold and back into the combustion; the crank case pressure being generated by the combustion.

Inside the engine, the pistons slide up and down on the cylinder. Oil is used to keep the piston from coming in direct contact with the cylinder wall; allowing it to glide and not rub. The pistons have rings around them which have a gap at one end that allows it contract and expand with the pistons. Part of the rings function is to push/squeegee down the oil that is on the walls to not allow it to enter the combustion. During the combustion some of the pressure escapes past the rings and into the crank case. The crank case is the area below the pistons where the crank rotates; the engine block.

The pressure from the crank case needs to escape, so it flows out of the crank case and into the timing cover area. Then it makes its way up to the heads and out of the valve cover via the PCV valve.

The PCV valve is connected to the intake manifold with a vacuum hose. The intake manifold is constantly in vacuum pulling the fumes from the crank case, into the intake, then into the combustion and out of the exhaust.

Problem

It sounds great to pass the wasted vapors from the crank case back into the combustion. The problem is that these vapors contain oil, so the intake manifold, cylinders, and valves all get coated with oil. This turns to gunk and build up which then can cause increase in compression and knocking. Oil in the combustion may also affect the octane level further causing knock; higher compression, less octane, its not a good mix.

Solutions

Vent to Atmosphere

One option is to disconnect the vacuum line that goes to the intake manifold. Plug the intake manifold and leave the PCV open to atmosphere. Now the intake manifold will not be sucking in oil and the crank case still gets to vent. This is not a clean solution as you are venting that into the air we breathe; when it could have been processed through the combustion again.

One thing that you will notice immediately when you vent to the atmosphere is that it will smell bad. It gets in your clothes and in your pores.

Catch Can

The other option is to use a catch can. A catch can is a container which can be in any shape usually as a cylinder or a square aluminum box. When properly designed, this container is intended to remove the oil from the vapors that come out of the crank case.

You connect a hose from the PCV valve into this container. Then you connect a hose from the container into the intake manifold. As fumes are pulled from the crank case they enter the container and pass through turns and walls to help condensate it. The longer the vapors are out of the engine the cooler they get, then the oil particles become denser and stay in the container. Cleaner air exist the container and into the intake manifold.

DYI Catch Can

DIY PCV Vented Catch Can with a 1/2 Barb.

A home made catch can can be made using a PVC pipe that is closed in one end and with a screw cap on the other end. You can drill two holes then screw in two brass barbs. You fill the PVC with brillow pads. The purpose for the brillow pad is for the vapor to come in contact with the material and add resistance, condensing it. You screw the cap and you connect the PCV hose from the valve cover into one barb and the other barb is connected to the intake. It works better if the barb that takes in fumes has a hose inside that forces it to travel to the bottom of the container. This way is has to make its way up through the material inside and out of the container; otherwise it will enter and leave the container without barely touching the brillow material.

You can also use a catch can with PCV systems that are vented to atmosphere. A hose goes from the PCV valve to the catch can, then cleaner air exits out to atmosphere (it will smell less and keep the engine bay clean). Usually when you have the crank case vented you will notice your hood develop a film of oil and sometime even coat the whole side of the engine bay. Its not cool when you try to impress a girlfriend with a clean Maxima and smells like you drive a tractor.

Turbo and Superchargers

The PCV valve is a one way valve which allows air to flow out of the valve cover. This helps keep pressure from the intake manifold from going into the valve cover and further increasing the pressure of the crank case. When this occurs you will start to see oil leaks develop. The inner timing cover, the outer edges of the timing cover, the area between the inner timing cover and the valve cover, are all areas that are prone to leak because of excess crankcase pressure.

The problem is that these PCV valves do not seal well against pressure. If you have a turbo or supercharger its likely that the pressure from the intake is going to seep into the crank case. A solution is to put a real one way check valve on the hose. The problem now is, where does the crank pressure go if there is pressure in the intake manifold. Generally it will vent out of the front valve cover where a breather is usually placed on the outlet that often connects to the intake piping near the MAF. This is not enough to vent efficiently, the pressure builds up in the crank case till it finds a way out causing leaks and loss in power. If there is pressure in the crank case it takes more effort for the pistons to go down. You can fix this by putting the line that connects to the PCV valve to the suction side of the supercharger or turbo. This is after it has passed through a catch can; you don’t want your shiny compressor wheel coated in oil.

From my experience, when you start to boost the VQ, you need to also vent out more crank case pressure. You can drill out the PCV Valve and use an external one; you can also replace it with a larger one. If your system is vented to atmosphere then you can drill the valve cover, put a barb and run an additional vacuum hose to the catch can. Some catch cans have multiple inlets. You may also have a filter or breather on the front valve cover while you have the check valve in the PCV hose. When the engine goes into boost, it will close the PCV hose, then vent pressure out of the breather. This is not a good solution as you need more flow than just the breather’s port which usually gets routed to the intake.

One last solutions is to run the hoses from the catch can into the exhaust. The hose connects to a pipe that goes in to the exhaust in an angle in the direction with the exhaust stream. As the exhaust flows it pulls the air from the pipe and the hose sucking the crank case pressure out. The closer you have it to the exist of your exhaust the better because if its too close to the engine usually your exhaust system would have some back pressure. So although it would still work it wont be as effective.

There is another solution which is to use a vacuum pump to pull out the crank case pressure but I will not get into those details in this release.

You should now see if you didn’t already how important it is to deal with the PCV system when you modify your car. It directly affects the power of your engine, yet it tends to get forgotten.

Thank you for reading and following Fastmaximas.

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Mr Greenmax Turbo VQ30 550WHP+

Now this is what I am talking about folks. Today we feature this 1999 Nissan Maxima that is making over 500WHP on the VQ30. Nowadays most maxima enthusiasts want to swap a 3.5 (VQ35) in their 4th Gen (95-99) Maxima’s and forget to realize that the VQ30 is well equipped to handle great power in factory and in built form.

An interesting aspect of this build is that despite making such great power it still has the factory 4th Gen intake manifold which is proven to be the most inefficient. This build has a lot more potential and I am looking forward to seeing more.

Overall Details

The turbo is a Precision 62/62 with 3″ piping from the turbo to the throttle body and a 3″ exhaust from the turbo to the back along with a cutout that exists out of the passenger side door.

The fuel system consists of a 6an return line and a 8an feed. Feeding the fuel are 960cc Injectors and a 450 Walbro with a Aeromotive fuel filter.
It also has nitrous using a ZEX Nitrous Wet System, jetted for 65HP.  

The computer handling this monster is a Haltech Platinum Sport 2000. To get the Haltech to work at the time a Ford Mustang trigger wheel needed to be used. The boost is controlled by gear via the Haltech, 1st gear has no boost, 2nd gear gets 15psi, and there after 21psi. 570WHP.

Engine Details:

JWT Cams
VQ30 Built Block with Wiseco pistons 9.1 compression
K1 Rods
ACL bearing
Block Guard

Transmission

05 Maxima 6 speed with SER Spec V gears and limited slip; using Redline Fluid to help with shock.
Holding it the torque is a ClutchMaster twin disk clutch

Worked performed by MPHFabrication and tuned by Autoauthorityct.

I hope you enjoyed this post as much as I did and I will be sure to continue sharing updates of this sweet ride.

Follow Mr.Greenmax on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/mr.greenmax

Thank You

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Streetzlegend Front Mount Turbo Build Part 3

In this part three of the front mount turbo setup I go over the exhaust options. Exhaust exit to the floor, exit out of the hood and cat back exhaust.

Some information about the car:
1997 Maxima
VQ35DE
Automatic
Turbo (initially rear mount turbo)

Floor Exit

To get the car on the street quickly I made the turbo exit aiming down to the floor. This was not fun like when you drive around the block with no cat back installed and you cant feel your own body due to the noise and drone. The pipe used was 3.5inch and the bend was made with pie cuts for a sharper turn to stay away from the radiator.

Driving required some getting used too. As you drive a car for a long time you start to become aware of the sounds it makes. You can hear when its lean, rich, knocking, or piston slapping. When those sounds are overpowered by the exhaust, you are left with no feedback; you feel disconnected. Apart from that the car was now alive. Here are videos with the exhaust to the floor.

Front mount turbo idling with down pipe aiming to the floor.
Front mount turbo untuned test drive with down pipe to the floor.

Cat Back

I started working on a cat back solution. There was enough space between the cross member and the turbo feed pipe. I had to make a reducer from the turbo to a 3 inch 90 degree pipe. To accomplish this I got the flange for the turbo and made v cuts all around the end that welds to the exhaust. I then bent the fins(created with the V cuts) inward and welded them all; this gave me a smooth reducer. I welded the 90 degree pipe to the flange, welded the other end to a new 90 degree pipe that turns under the engine and between the cross member and turbo feed pipe.

Catback exhaust sound clip.
Testing the cat back exhaust at 16psi of boost.

Hood Exit

The hood exist was not my first option, it was not even a thought. With the car not being daily driven I figured I would try something new. I made a 3.5 inch pipe with pie cuts to achieve 90 degrees and pointed it up to the hood. To find where I needed to cut I put grease on the pipe and closed the hood to see where it would mark. After hacking away this is the result.

The hood exit was more quiet than when pointing to the floor. It is still loud but it does not feel like an earthquake anymore.

In Part 4 of this article I will go over the finishing touches, and that is the side exhaust that sounds great.

To be continued…

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Streetzlegend Front Mount Turbo Build Part 2

In this part two of the front mount turbo build I will go over making the radiator efficient enough to cool the engine in all conditions.

Some information about the car:
1997 Maxima
VQ35DE
Automatic
Turbo (initially rear mount turbo)

DIY Fan Shroud

I used a generic brand radiator from eBay. It is a two core aluminum radiator for a Honda del Sol. The fan used is a Spal 12″ Curved Blade Puller Fan. With a pullIng fan it is important to use a shroud so that the air is pulled from all sections of the radiator. Having no shroud the fan will only pull air through the area where the fan is mounted too; limiting the cooling area to that diameter.

I created the Shroud using two cookie baking trays. I cut both of them in half then I overlaid the ends together so that I can have a specific width to cover the whole area needed. The tray is about a quarter inch to half an inch deep which means this is how far the trays floor will be away from the radiator; you want this distance or greater to help pull air from the corners of the radiator.

I then riveted the trays together to make a sturdy. I cut a hexagonal shape in the center with the same diameter as the fan (12″). To support it all, I used the brackets that came with the fan and bolted them to the radiator; I fastened the shroud to the radiator with through bolts.

Dealing with exhaust Heat

For the radiator hoses I visited a local parts store and asked to get access to all the hoses. The tricky part was the bottom hose, so I found several bends that worked out great. I used a connector to merge the hoses together to make one final piece that would go across the radiator support, to the passenger side, and up like the usual stock hose path. This bottom hose passes directly in front of the feed and down pipes so wrapping them in header wrap was necessary in my opinion to protect the rubber from direct heat.

After driving around it was clear that I needed to wrap the down pipe and feed pipe to keep it from starting to over heat; this is when I thought I should have purchased a three core radiator. With a few modifications I have had success with the two core. I created a shield to block the down pipe from radiating heat directly onto the radiators side which helped a lot.

This video shows the heat shield made to block heat from the downpipe.

As you can see in the video, I had the transmission cooler mounted on the grill in front of the turbo. This was an issue because the heat coming off the turbo and exhaust piping would warm up the cooler in traffic. I had to relocate the cooler and at the same time upgraded to a larger unit; more on this in its own blog post.

The next test was sitting in traffic or in a staging line. The engine would start to warm up after a long while. I realized that the reason for this was because the passenger side of the grill area was opened exposing the turbo and exhaust piping. This means that when the car is at a stop, heat comes out of the front of the grill area then gets pulled back in through the radiator; basically the radiator was pulling air that was already hot. The solution was to make a plate from thin aluminum which blocked the left side of the grill completely. I then cut a triangle on the hood above the turbo so that it could be an escape for the heat. The end result gave me a reliable setup for cooling.

Finally, since the car is now more focused for racing, I created a short exhaust pipe that exits out of the hood. This is used for the track or weekends. Alternately I can attach the catback to the original turbo outlet I created when I want a quiet ride. will go into details in the next post.

In the next post I will go over how I created the rear side exhaust while still keeping a muffler.